Eco-Boating

Eco-Friendly Boating

The impact of recreational boating on aquatic ecosystems is significant.

Fish, shellfish, sea birds and other forms of aquatic life require a balance of nutrients, oxygen and clean water to survive. Even small quantities of toxic products in the water can disrupt this balance, with lasting harmful effects.

The volume of hydrocarbon and oil pollution entering North America’s waters every year from recreational boating is estimated to be more than 15 times the amount of the Exxon Valdez spill (up to one billion litres per year). An estimated 30 percent of all fuel and oil used in two-stroke engines ends up in the water. We can reduce these threats to the ecosystems by careful attention to routine boat maintenance and use.

Eco-Friendly Boat Maintenance

Tips which can help ease the impact of routine boat maintenance:

Keep a Supply of oil-absorbant rags on board – for spill cleanup of oil and fuel. Even small spills of oil can contaminate a large volume of water.
Properly dispose of used oil and filters – facilities are available to handle these elements which are toxic to the marine environment. In the US call 1 800 CLEANUP for the nearest disposal facility.
Keep used solvents separate from used oil - never mix wastes, or pour hazardous wastes down drains, on the ground or into surface waters.
Wax your boat – A good coat of wax on a fiberglass hull prevents surface dirt from becoming engrained. This will reduce the need for detergents when you wash your boat. Pollen, dust, spores, or salt occur naturally and will do no harm when they are washed into the water.
Wash topsides only - Limit dock side hull cleaning to the above water surface area only — from the boot stripe up. Use a sponge to effectively remove light growth without creating the clouds of heavy metals usually caused by scrubbing. Rinse your boat with fresh water.
Use non-toxic cleaners – many cleaning products contain phosphates and other chemicals that are toxic to aquatic ecosystems. Before using products with hazardous warning labels, such as skull and crossbones, try a natural cleaner like vinegar.

Examples:

Fiberglass stains – make a paste of baking soda and water. Use a sponge or soft cloth and gently rub the mix into the stain. This paste can also be used to clean onboard showers and heads. While baking soda is an excellent all-around cleaner, keep in mind that it is abrasive, so use with care. Use lemon or lime juice as a final wipe-down for a shiny, fresh-smelling finish.

Windows and mirrors - mix vinegar, lemon juice and warm water. Fill a spray bottle with the solution. Spray it on your windows and wipe with paper towels or newspapers.

Chrome – use apple cider vinegar on a soft cotton cloth to rub it clean. Then, use a fresh cloth with a dab of baby oil to restore it to a bright shine.

Brass – Worcestershire sauce, vinegar and salt solution

Copper fittings – make a paste of either lemon or lime juice and salt. Rub gently to clean.

Stainless steel – clean with a cloth dampened with undiluted white vinegar.

Aluminum – using a soft cloth, clean with a solution of cream of tartar and water.

Plastic surfaces – use a mixture of one part white vinegar and two parts warm water.

Decks – use a mixture of one part white vinegar and eight parts warm water.

Interior woods – can be cleaned by using olive oil or almond oil. The oil will provide natural moisturizers for the wood and add shine at the same time. Don’t use these oils on exterior surfaces, however, since they don’t hold up in direct sun.

More natural cleaning alternatives:

Homemade Substitutions

• Baking Soda – cleans, deodorizes, softens water, scours.
• Soap – unscented soap in liquid form, flakes, powders or bars is biodegradable and will clean just about anything. Avoid using soaps which contain petroleum distillates.
• Lemon – one of the strongest food-acids, effective against most household bacteria.
  
• Borax – (sodium borate) cleans, deodorizes, disinfects, softens water, cleans wallpaper, painted walls and floors.
• White Vinegar – cuts grease, removes mildew, odors, some stains and wax build-up.
• Washing Soda – or SAL Soda is sodium carbonate decahydrate, a mineral. Washing soda cuts grease, removes stains, softens water, cleans wall, tiles, sinks and tubs. Use care, as washing soda can irritate mucous membranes. Do not use on aluminum.
• Isopropyl Alcohol - is an excellent disinfectant. (It has been suggested to replace this with ethanol or 100 proof alcohol in solution with water. There is some indication that isopropyl alcohol buildup contributes to illness in the body. See http://drclark.ch/g)
• Cornstarch - can be used to clean windows, polish furniture, shampoo carpets and rugs.
• Citrus Solvent – cleans paint brushes, oil and grease, some stains. (Citrus solvent may cause skin, lung or eye irritations for people with multiple chemical sensitivities.)
• Trisodium phosphate (TSP) - a mixture of soda ash and phosphoric acid. TSP is toxic if swallowed, but it can be used on many jobs, such as cleaning drains or removing old paint, that would normally require much more caustic and poisonous chemicals, and it does not create any fumes.

Formulas
Combinations of the above basic products can provide less harmful substitutions for many commercial home products. In most cases, they’re also less expensive. Here are some formulas for safe, alternative home care products: (Note: These formulas and substitutions are offered to help minimize the use of toxic substances in your home, and reduce the environmental harm caused by the manufacture, use and disposal of toxics. Results may vary and cannot be guaranteed to be 100% safe and effective. Before applying any cleaning formulations, test in small hidden areas if possible)
Make sure to keep all home-made formulas well-labeled, and out of the reach of children.

All-Purpose Cleaner: Mix 1/2 cup vinegar and 1/4 cup baking soda (or 2 teaspoons borax) into 1/2 gallon (2 liters) water. Store and keep. Use for removal of water deposit stains on shower stall panels, bathroom chrome fixtures, windows, bathroom mirrors, etc.
Another alternative is microfiber cloths which lift off dirt, grease and dust without the need for cleaning chemicals, because they are formulated to penetrate and trap dirt. There are a number of different brands. A good quality cloth can last for several years.

Air Freshener: Commercial air fresheners mask smells and coat nasal passages to diminish the sense of smell.
• Baking soda or vinegar with lemon juice in small dishes absorbs odors around the house.
• Having houseplants helps reduce odors in the home.
• Prevent cooking odors by simmering vinegar (1 tbsp in 1 cup water) on the stove while cooking. To get such smells as fish and onion off utensils and cutting boards, wipe them with vinegar and wash in soapy water.
• Keep fresh coffee grounds on the counter.
• Grind up a slice of lemon in the garbage disposal.
• Simmer water and cinnamon or other spices on stove.
• Place bowls of fragrant dried herbs and flowers in room.

Bathroom mold: Mold in bathroom tile grout is a common problem and can be a health concern. Mix one part hydrogen peroxide (3%) with two parts water in a spray bottle and spray on areas with mold. Wait at least one hour before rinsing or using shower.


Carpet stains: Mix equal parts white vinegar and water in a spray bottle. Spray directly on stain, let sit for several minutes, and clean with a brush or sponge using warm soapy water.
For a heavy duty carpet cleaner, mix 1/4 cup each of salt, borax and vinegar. Rub paste into carpet and leave for a few hours. Vacuum.

Dishwasher Soap: Mix equal parts of borax and washing soda, but increase the washing soda if your water is hard.

Dishwashing Soap: Commercial low-phosphate detergents are not themselves harmful, but phosphates nourish algae which use up oxygen in waterways. A detergent substitution is to use liquid soap. Add 2 or 3 tablespoons of vinegar to the warm, soapy water for tough jobs.

Disinfectant: Mix 2 teaspoons borax, 4 tablespoons vinegar and 3 cups hot water. For stronger cleaning power add 1/4 teaspoon liquid castile soap. Wipe on with dampened cloth or use non-aerosol spray bottle.

Also check in the"PDFs-Misc Items" for more ECO-Information

Antifouling Paint

Most antifouling bottom paints are harmful to marine life. The newest coatings are formulated to have a less toxic and less long-lasting effect. Silicon, teflon, and other "nonfouling" paints rely on a slick surface to inhibit growth rather than on toxic ingredients to kill growth.

The main types of antifouling paint in use are:
Ablative – "sloughing" paints are partially soluble; the active ingredient is constantly leaching out which exposes fresh paint.
Hard antifouling – "contact leaching" paints which create a porous film on the surface. Biocides are held in the pores, and released slowly. It has extended antifouling properties with limited leaching or sloughing of toxic metals into the marine environment.
Teflon/silicon coatings – produce hard, slick surfaces to which fouling growth cannot attach. These non-toxic coatings are not as effective as the biocide-based paints. Special conditions are required for application and complaints have been reported about slippery conditions during hauling, and short-lived results.
SealCoat system – uses biocide free epoxy resin as a bonding agent that seals the surface, and the finishing layer consists of synthetic micro-fibers that protrude slightly from the epoxy layers, thus resembling the velvet-like skin of the seal. SealCoat works mechanically due to the movement of the fibers in the water, even when the boat remains idle. The system can provide five years of continuous and effective fouling protection, and can be applied to all kinds of surfaces, such as steel, aluminum, plastic, wood, fiberglass etc. SealCoat is suitable for all types of boats (sailing or cruisers), and especially for those that retain their full displacement when cruising. While SealCoat is an environmentally friendly antifouling method, it is expensive and must be applied by a trained specialist. It is also easily damaged and cannot be repainted.

Hull Cleaning – Hulls painted with ablative paints should not be cleaned in the water, as the scrubbing action will release paint and its associated biocide. If using a pressure washer to clean the hull, the pressure should be set at the minimum level needed to remove the slime.

The best option is to haul your boat out at a marina which has a ‘closed-loop’ system where runoff is collected in a settlement tank and filtered before being reused.

Hulls painted with hard paints may be cleaned in the water, but care must be taken to use the least abrasive material possible.

Painting tips:

Do you need antifouling paint? – antifouling paint is expensive and toxic; you may be able to do without it. Try using regular paint and a coat of slick bottom wax. If you have a small boat, you can avoid using antifouling paint by storing the boat on dry land. If you keep a boat in the water for prolonged periods, scrubbing the bottom with a long-handled brush once a month may be sufficient.
Use ‘hard’ bottom paint - this reduces the amount of toxic paint which sloughs off your boat bottom. Refrain from hull cleaning for a minimum of 60 days after applying ‘hard’ antifouling paint.
Use a tarp or drop sheet – when scraping or sanding the bottom, use a tarp to collect the old flakes, which are still hazardous. All sanding and scraping of the boat should be done away from the water, if possible. If it’s a breezy day, use part of the tarp to form a windbreak; this prevents the flakes from blowing off the drop sheet. Collect all paint residue and correctly dispose of it at an appropriate waste facility. A vacuum is useful in cleanup and containing of the small particles.
Paint brush cleaner – Non-toxic, citrus oil based solvents are now available commercially under several brand names, e.g. CitraSolve. Paint brushes and rollers used for an on-going project can be saved overnight, or even up to a week, without cleaning at all. Wrap the brush or roller snugly in a plastic bag. Squeeze out air pockets and store away from light. The paint won’t dry because air can’t get to it. Unwrap the brush or roller the next day and continue with the job.

Eco-Friendly Boating Tips:

Buying a new engine? An estimated 30 percent of all fuel and oil used in two-stroke engines ends up in the water. Manufacturers around the world are responding to this concern by developing four-stroke marine engines, lean-burn two-stroke engines, and fuel injection systems which greatly reduce the amount of oil and fuel entering the water and air emissions. A four stroke is also quieter, smoother and easier to use. Since it runs cleaner, there is also less fouling of spark plugs, one of the things that makes engines hard to start.
Engine Maintenance: Always keep your engines tuned. Not only will it save you money, but a well tuned engine emits less polutants.
Fill portable fuel tanks on shore - Take them ashore or on a fuel dock where spills are less likely to occur. Make sure they are on the ground, or grounded.
Don’t overfill fuel tanks - fuel expands as it warms, and excess fuel will escape through the vent line. Rough seas can also cause spillage from over-full tanks. When filling a built-in fuel tank, use your hand to check for air escaping from the vent. When the tank is nearly full, you’ll feel a distinct increase in air flow. That is the signal to stop filling. Don’t trust the automatic shutoff on the gas nozzle; the fuel filling nozzle should be attended at all times.
Close the vent - on portable gas tanks when the engine is not in use or when the tank is stored.

avoid pumping out the bilge – use absorbent "bilge pillows" which are designed to absorb petroleum products and repel water. Disposable cloths also work for this purpose. Check to see if your marina offers a bilge pump-out service.
Recycle fluids - ask your marina if they recycle fluids. Use a drain pan to capture used engine or outdrive oil. Do the same when changing the ethylene glycol (toxic) antifreeze in a closed fresh water cooling system. And don’t forget oil filters and batteries are recyclable, too.

Clean all mud and plant debris from the boat, trailer, propeller, live well, and anchors before leaving the boat launch to prevent the spread of exotic species that cause severe habitat alteration and degradation.
Avoid pumping out raw sewage - if your boat doesn’t have an installed toilet, you should consider using a portable one, commonly referred to as a "port-a-potty". It should be emptied at a pump-out station or proper disposal site. Onboard holding tanks are useful, but they require pump-out facilities ashore. If possible, avoid disinfectants, which usually contain harsh chemicals
Winterizing: Do all hull cleaning once the boat is out of the water. Change fluids in out-drives and check for leaks. Leave some room in the fuel tanks, the gas will expand when the weather turns warmer. Use recreation anti-freeze to fill the engines and exhaust headers if you do not have a closed loop system. You are not allowed to pump regular anti-freeze into the water or on the ground.
Spring Preps: Now is the time to wash the boat with hull cleaners, touch up the bottom paint, and give the boat a complete wax job. Check all engine fluids and check all fittings for leaks. These things should be done before the boat is back in the water.